The black and tan coonhound hunter and companion

The Black and Tan Coonhound is often referred to as simply the Black and Tan. They are a medium to medium/large working class breed that loves to work and hunt. They weigh between 55-75 pounds and reach up to 27" in height. Recognized by the AKC, the Black and Tan Coonhound's coat is predominantly black with tan markings on the muzzle, chest and legs. Their name, of course, simply comes from their coat color. Their sleek, short, shiny coat is dense. It is easy to care for and requires minimal brushing. Whether hunting dog or family companion for active families, the Black and Tan Coonhound will do well with their friendly, energetic nature. They are good with children and other dogs or pets. Because of their history of hunting small animals, it is best to socialize them from puppyhood with cats and other small non-canine pets. They are highly intelligent and fairly easy to train. When they are at home with family, they are laid back and easygoing. However, when they are tracking or hunting they are all business and they become very intense and energetic. As hunting dogs, they love to do their job and do it well. They should not be kept locked up inside all day and they need plenty of exercise and play. When they are outside, it is best to keep them in a fenced in yard as they have a tendency to take off if they discover an interesting scent or see a critter in the area. Originating in the United States, the Black and Tan Coonhound was developed by crossing the Bloodhound and Foxhound. They were mainly used to hunt raccoon, but are also good opossum and other game hunters. They are known for their excellent tracking ability. With their high energy level and love for hunting and being outdoors, the Black and Tan Coonhound needs a family that will meet their activity needs. While they are an active breed, they are surprisingly calm when they are home hanging out with their family. They make a good family companion for any family dynamic willing to give them the exercise and play that they need.

The one dog trick that all dogs must know the hand shake trick

The first dog trick that is generally taught a dog is to shake hands, and there are very few puppy and dog owners who do not teach their pets this simple trick. In most cases it is so easily accomplished that the amateur trainer does not know exactly how it was done, for if you take hold of a dog’s paw and say “paw” or “shake” and repeat the performance often enough and at odd times, it will be the most natural thing for a dog to place his paw in your hand as soon as you extend it and he hears the word “paw,” to which he has become accustomed. If during the training you always take hold of the right paw, this paw will always be the one he will give you, but he can be taught to give you the left paw by taking it when you make the request. You can make the performance more interesting by saying “shake hands” when you want the right paw and when you want the left paw say “left paw.” This gives your audience the impression that your dog understands that it is customary to shake hands with the right hand and that he also possesses a left paw, in fact that is what he actually learns. Should your dog offer you the left paw when you ask to “shake hands,” repeat your command distinctly, and when he sees, after a moment or two, that you are not going to take the paw he offers, he will put it down and in all probability offer you the other paw, which is the one you want. You should take it promptly and hold it for a minute, then pat him on the head and impress on him that he has pleased you by praising and giving him a treat. This trick of shaking hands can also be varied by asking the dog to show you his pulse, or the trick can be farther elaborated by saying to your dog when you want to show him off to friends or acquaintances: “Buddy, old man, you are not looking well this morning; come here and let me feel your pulse,” and by putting a little emphasis on the word “pulse” the dog will come up to you and offer you his paw, and if you take it with an air of gravity it will impress your audience with your dog’s talent. Some dogs, after sufficient practice at this trick, get so habitual that they continually offer their paw to every one who will take it, and a case is recorded of a half-grown puppy of one of the larger breeds which was so accustomed to offering his paw that one day when a strange cat made its appearance on the premises before the puppy. He made a rush at the intruder with every appearance of hostility, but when near the cat habit gained a mastery over instinct, and held out his paw as usual to offer a friendly hand shake. Enjoy teaching your dog the hand shake trick and most importantly have fun!

Aquarium ornament

Aquarium ornaments aren't there to add any benefits to the fish, they are just for you to add some decoration in the tank. You can have all sorts of ornaments, big or small, traditional or caricature, simple or even complicated. There are thousands of different ornaments that you can buy in stores or you can even make your own. However ornaments are not for all fish, some fish don't like them, I know for a fact Oscars don't take well to any type of ornament or even plant. Some fish do need them though, basically to hide or live in and keep away from bigger fish. Traditional ornaments are ornaments like castles and ships, they provide security for smaller fish from the bigger ones, they also provide a place to stay and play, yes fish do play! Fish ornaments are available in pet and fish stores. They tend to range from very low to very high prices. You can of course get more detailed ornaments that aren't shaped to be anything except for like branches with weeds on them. Some fish need their ornaments to resemble their natural home, for example lots of plants and branches in the tank. If you have amphibians in your tank they often like a waterfall ornament with a bathing pool at the bottom of it so that they can bath in it. Amphibians need a lot of greenery in their tank as this resembles their home and therefore you should try to make sure that you fill you tank full of it! Aquarium ornaments are easy to come across and they don't take much effort to put in the tank. You should always try to keep the ornaments like the animals natural habitat unless it is a fish that couldn't care less, like goldfish for example. Goldfish are very easy to keep and you can decorate their tank with all sorts of funny ornaments. With smaller fish you can try to decorate their tanks with funky ornaments but I always feel that the traditional ones are better!

Pet care the hyperactive puppy

Puppies are like children. They can get into unimaginable difficulties when their environment is not structured. Here is a basic checklist of environmental hazards: Puppies can open loose cupboard doors. Buy cupboard door protectors or get out the good old duct tape and make sure that the cupboards that are low either can not be broken into or do not contain hazardous elements! Puppies can chew light cords. Arrange your home so that light cords, TV cables, computer cords, and so on, are hidden behind heavy immovable furniture or are enclosed behind barriers. Large Breed puppies can put their front feet onto ALL the counters. Push back items that they can get into, take them off the counters, or be prepared to have your most valuable items (such as your TV remote control) dragged off and chewed! Clothing articles can be DEADLY. I personally have known several puppies around the age of five to six months that have died from ingesting socks or chewing on scatter rugs.... fabric often balls up and creates an intestinal blockage. By the time the vet discovers it, it is too late. Don't allow your puppy to drag around socks or old towels, take them away and substitute with a dog toy. Common houseplants can be poisonous. Make sure you know which ones are, and keep them out of the environment where your puppy will be. You can find the poisonous ones through a quick check on the internet. Household poisons used for insect or rodent control should be absolutely out of the question in the puppies' environment. Simply do not apply poisons in areas that your puppy has access to, under any circumstance! Toys should be dog toys. Left over trucks from the kids' toy box are NOT GOOD. Items which have small parts which can be chewed off or swallowed are NOT GOOD. Likewise, most bones are NOT GOOD. Vets will tell you of the numbers of surgeries they have performed to remove bone shards from the intestines of dogs. If you must provide bones, the bigger "knucklebone" is a good choice because it will not shred off into sharp shards. Sticks are the favorite as far as retrieving, but sticks in the mouth of running puppies are dangerous. They can jam that stick into their throat if they run into an immovable object, OR they can take out the eye of another dog or even a child. Use good dog toys for retrieving...and be sure the toys are not too small for the dog's mouth and can not be swallowed! Nothing "settles down" a hyperactive puppy like a good exercise session. Do not over do, and be careful that you do not demand too much of your puppy before its young bones are ready....but go on walks, by all means. And make these walks a time to teach your puppy the basics of polite manners...sitting when you come to street corners, not barking at strangers that you meet. So that means these walks must be ON LEASH. (It's better exercise for you, that way, too!) After the "controlled" walk, a good run in a dog park, off leash, or a good swim in a nearby pond are excellent ways to burn off excess energy. The rule of thumb for walking distance for a pup is "no longer than 20 minutes" before six months of age. Nothing is as important in the care of a puppy as regular vet checks. Be sure that your puppy is immunized at the right times, fed well, exercised well, and spends the majority of its time in a "puppy-safe" environment....and have fun bringing up your puppy!